Pet Care Library

Crate Training

The use of a crate with a dog is so common that we may automatically assume it's a good tool for all dogs.  Sometimes it is and sometimes it is not.

Good Reasons to Use a Crate

Puppies need to learn the skill of resting calmly in a crate. This will never again be as easy for the dog to adapt to as it is in puppyhood. Even if you prefer not to use a crate routinely, seriously consider doing this conditioning for your pup. We can't know what might be ahead in the years of that dog's life that will make a crate an absolute necessity.

Dogs who will travel by plane or go for professional grooming are going to have to be able to tolerate a crate, so crate-training is a must for these canines.

Emergency evacuation in time of disaster, staying with your dog in travel or rental housing, being a guest in a home that has other animals or doesn't like animals are all situations where you could suddenly need to use a crate.

Veterinary care and at-home nursing care require crate restriction for certain conditions. Some veterinarians have runs they can use with crate-phobic dogs in certain situations, but this isn't always workable.

Few people can afford the damage a dog may do left free inside the house during the destructive chewing stage, or when the dog has a severe case of separation anxiety. Even if you are wealthy enough that damage isn't an issue (and have no items of sentimental value that you couldn't bear to have chewed), the dog is at risk of chewing something that will be fatal. A crate is the logical solution if the dog can tolerate it.

If your dog ever has to be re-homed to a new family or your family situation changes (including a kid going off to college) or you move, the dog may experience separation anxiety and badly need the support of a crate to get through it. At these times, you want the crate to feel like a safe place to the dog as a result of good foundation training in the past. In fact, you want this at any time you use a crate with your dog!

Reasons to Not Use a Crate

First, let's note that you can still condition your dog to a crate, even if you're not going to use it routinely. It is in your dog's best interests to do so. If you're not using the crate day-to-day, it's easy to take this conditioning slowly and make it fun, fun, fun for your dog. So why not do it? A crate and the time the ability to rest calmly inside it is good insurance for any dog. And remember, it's fun!

There are times and reasons that may make you decide not to crate your dog, though. Here are some of those reasons:

1. The dog has a medical condition that is worsened when the dog can't move around somewhat freely. Old dogs commonly have arthritis and some may stiffen up with close confinement.  Inflamed joints on a dog of any age can react the same way. If the dog with such a condition needs to be prevented from running and jumping for medical reasons, you and your veterinarian may decide to use a small room instead of a crate or keep the dog with you on leash.

2. The dog has begun urinating or defecating in the crate. Not only is this messy, it's bad for the dog's skin and can damage the dog's instincts to keep a clean sleeping-place. This dog needs to be out of the crate, perhaps in an exercise pen or a small room with a baby-gate across the doorway, until the dog re-establishes the habit of a clean bed and you solve any problem causing the dog not to be able to hold it during confinement.

3. The dog is afraid of the crate. This fear can be difficult to distinguish from separation anxiety, and one fear can lead to the other. Some of these dogs are difficult to manage, which is why we want to condition all puppies to be able to rest calmly in a crate. That foundation can make a huge difference later. If you have a crate-phobic dog, you can recondition the dog's reaction to the crate, but you don't want to use the crate as a routine confinement method while doing the conditioning. That would undo the positive conditioning to the crate you're trying to establish.

4. The time the dog needs to be left alone is too long for crate confinement. Eight hours is a good top limit for crate time, even if the dog is doing great in a crate. Why risk trouble?  For pups under 7 months of age, the rule of thumb is to crate no longer than the number of hours equaling the dog's age in months plus one. When a dog has the experience of being crated too long and feeling trapped while needs go unmet, that is the perfect set up to begin fear of the crate, fear of being left alone, and other problems. So if you need to leave a dog longer than the dog can comfortably hold bladder and bowels or longer than 8 hours (whichever is less), use different confinement, such as a small room.

5. Is there any reason to crate this dog? If you have a dog who behaves wonderfully when left alone loose in the house, consider why you would crate. One reason might be that the dog is new to your home and you're not sure what the dog might do in the next few days or weeks. Better crate than sorry. Another reason is when your 4 month-old puppy is housetrained and you think the need for a crate is over.  Chances are the permanent teeth will erupt in the next few months and serious chewing such as you've not seen in this pup before will start! So don't stop crating at this age. Wait a bit to see how much of a chewer your pup is going to be. With large dogs, expect to use the crate to age 2 to 2 1/2 years of age to get past the destructive chewing stage. It's not for life!

6. Does your dog have a job to do in your home? If one reason you have a dog is to deter criminals from breaking into your house or harming your family, the dog can't do this job confined to a crate. In such a case you're going to want to choose a breed, bloodline, and individual dog with a high chance of growing into an adult dog who can be trusted loose in your house (some are not likely to develop this ability, so do your research!). You're also going to need to do the right foundation work, including use of a crate to help management until the dog has learned to chew only the right items, to eliminate in the right place, etc.

Use Crates Thoughtfully

Dogs have at times had their lives saved by crates. They have also been able to handle stressful situations much more serenely because the crate has been built up in the dog's experience as a safe place. The skill of resting calmly in a crate is a life skill that can benefit almost all dogs. There is, however, a disturbing trend for people to overuse crates with their dogs. Being able to spend several hours a day moving around the house rather than spending that same time in a crate will benefit a dog in many ways. The dog loose in the house moderately exercises the body, which for some dogs can be all the exercise they need. Small dogs and busy types like herding dogs will keep going and going and going indoors, happily getting a great deal of exercise. Dogs don't learn anything when crated, other than to accept crating or to fear it, in certain unfortunate situations. To train your dog for the ability to be reliable free in your house, have the dog out of the crate and with you whenever you can supervise and teach. With maturity and training, the majority of dogs will learn to behave well in the house when you're not watching as well as when you are. Dogs need mental exercise as well as physical exercise, and being free in the house allows more mental stimulation, too. You can help determine how your dog will use this wonderful brainpower by providing toys and games (hide treats around the house when you're going to be gone, for example) and working with your dog to establish safe play habits in the house. Ideally, good crate practices start when you plan to acquire a dog, by getting a good crate (or two, or three!), deciding where to place it (bedroom, car, possibly family room), thinking through a good schedule for your dog, buying safe toys, and otherwise being well prepared to meet your new dog's needs.  If the dog is a puppy, consider the background. A pet shop or other puppy-mill puppy will likely need alternate confinement for a while until clean instincts can kick in, so have a plan for that. Ask the breeder or foster home of any dog you're adopting about that dog's experience with crates. Be prepared for separation anxiety to kick in when you bring home a new dog. Most separation anxiety of this sort subsides with time and sensible, stable management. A dog who has previously been fine with a crate can develop fear of it for various reasons, sometimes reasons we don't understand. Do everything you can to keep the crate a happy place that feels safe to your dog. Be prepared to get the dog out of a crate, temporarily or permanently, if the dog develops a problem with it. The crate is not the only way to confine a dog, and some dogs don't need confinement for much of their lives other than being inside a house or a fence. The more we understand about why we're using a crate with this dog at this time, or why we should avoid a crate with this dog at least for now, the better we can manage our dogs for health and happiness.

Kathy Diamond Davis is the author of the book Therapy Dogs: Training Your Dog to Reach Others.

Consider puppytrek.com>> for more reading material

House Training

If your dog will be trained to eliminate only outdoors, start by establishing an elimination spot. In the morning, clip his leash to his collar and take the dog outdoors to his spot for elimination. State commands like "go potty" or "hurry up." After he does his duty, bring the dog inside for food and water. About 15 to 20 minutes after the meal, take the dog outside again for elimination. Take your dog to his "spot" at each elimination time and maintain a regular feeding, drinking, and elimination schedule.

One of the most commonly made errors in housetraining is rushing too quickly ahead of your dog. Too much freedom too quickly can cause some confusion. If your dog experiences an accident or two, you should back up and slow down your training efforts. Marking should not be confused with housetraining problems because marking is deliberate. It is advised that if you notice this behavior indoors or out, you should strengthen all obedience commands immediately.

Providing your dog or puppy with a crate that is way too large may allow him to relieve himself in one end and sleep in the other. Make sure you take your dog or puppy outdoors to eliminate on a regular schedule and especially prior to being left for prolonged periods of time.

If you have tried all the above and are still experiencing what you believe to be "Territorial Marking," consult your veterinarian. Your dog/puppy may have a bladder infection and it's always best to be safe, not sorry. If your dog/puppy is not spayed or neutered, you may want to talk to your veterinarian about this procedure. It usually has a very positive effect on this type of behavior.

Even well-trained dogs sometimes have accidents. Clean the accident area with a pet odor neutralizer so your dog won"t be tempted to repeat his mistake. Here are some tips to help prevent accidents:

Do not make sudden changes in his diet.

Avoid giving your dog late night snacks.

Make sure to spend enough time outdoors.

• Courtesy: Purina
• Consider puppytrek.com>> for more reading material

Dental Information

• What You Will Need:
• Doggie toothpaste

Toothbrush or washcloth or gauze to wrap around your finger

The Cleaning Process:

Gather all of your supplies and prep as much as possible prior to starting. Choose whether you will be cleaning with a toothbrush, washcloth or gauze wrapped around your finger and apply a small amount of the doggie toothpaste to the tip.

It is best to complete this cleaning when your dog is relaxed. If your dog is ready to play, it may be difficult to get him to sit still while you clean.

Find a position that allows you to easily access your dog's mouth/teeth.

Gently lift the upper lip on one side and begin brushing in a circular motion. Refresh with more toothpaste as needed.

As you are brushing and cleaning, ensure to clean the gum line (where the teeth meet the gums) because this is where many problems start.

Work your way around the mouth brushing each tooth. Use care to thoroughly clean the back teeth as this is where many problems can occur as well.

When all of the top teeth are cleaned, continue with the same procedure to clean the bottom teeth.

Complete this cleaning twice a week.

Additional Tips and Advice

Did you know that your pet's "dog breath" does not always have to be bad. In fact, if your dog has bad breath, it can be a sign of a problem with their teeth.

If your dog will not tolerate the toothbrush, try a nubby-surfaced rubber cap. These are like rubber toothbrushes that you place on the top of your finger and provide a gentler cleaning than bristled brushes. It also gives you a good feel of where you're brushing since it's right on your fingertip.

Only use dental products designed specifically for dogs. Do not use human toothpaste for your dog as it is not designed to be swallowed and dogs cannot spit. Anything that you use to clean their teeth will be swallowed, so ensure it's made for them.

Feed your dog hard dog biscuits or hard dog food each day and a hard bone (ex bone marrow) or toy to chew on to keep their teeth strong.

It may be helpful to have another person around to help you when you are cleaning your dog's teeth for the first few times, even if it's just to help keep your dog calm during the process.

Ear Cleaning

Below is an ear flush recipe to help protect ears.

1 pint of isopropyl (90%) alcohol mixed with 1 tablespoon of boric acid.

Keep lid on tightly when the solution is not in use.

*Fill* the dogs' ear canal with the solution, massage it for 30-60 seconds then allow your pet to shake its' head. (You may get a little wet!) For cats, do not fill ear canal, simply use a moist cotton ball.

Treat 2 times a day for 7-10 days.  Every 2nd-3rd day, clean out dogs' ears with cotton balls moistened with the solution. (Do not use Q-tips)

Continue treating 1 time a day for the next 2 weeks and then 1 time per month or as needed.

The solution is a drying agent, yeast and bacteria need warm moist environments to survive.  The solution is also a fairly good sterilizing agent, killing a lot of  the bacteria and yeast that are present.  The solution lowers the pH in the ear canal, making it an inhospitable environment for the surviving yeast and bacteria to grow once the ear canal regains moisture

Fleas

Fleas are the most common external parasite of companion animals. Flea allergy dermatitis is the most common skin disease of dogs and cats!

Flea control has always been a challenge for veterinarians and pet owners because the adult fleas cause the clinical signs, yet the majority of the flea population (eggs, larvae and pupae) are to be found off the pet in and around the home. The ideal flea control program utilizes products that target the various stages of the flea life cycle, not only the adult fleas on the pet.

Fleas are also responsible for tapeworms in dogs and cats. Infected fleas are ingested by dogs or cats when they lick their fur and ultimately can lick up the infected fleas.

We highly recommend flea preventative year round, applications to be administered monthly.

***Please read all directions prior to administration of a flea preventative as some are not to be used on both cats and dogs.  For example; Advantix (active ingredient Permethrin), Vectra 3D (active ingredient Permethrin)Comfortis (active ingredient Spinosad),  is not to be used on cats, only dogs.

Heartworms

Heartworm is a fairly large worm, up to 14 inches long, that in adulthood lives in the heart and pulmonary arteries of an infected dog or cat. Dogs and cats acquire this infection through mosquito bites as mosquitoes pick up larval heartworms from infected dogs and carry them to new dogs and cats.

Before reviewing the clinical signs seen in heartworm disease, an important distinction must be made between heartworm disease and heartworm infection. Heartworm infection by definition means the host animal (usually a dog) is parasitized by at least one life stage of the heartworm (Dirofilaria immitis). Dogs with heartworms in their bodies do not necessarily have adult worms in their hearts; they may have larval heartworms in their skin only. Dogs with heartworms in their bodies are not necessarily sick, either. Dogs with only larvae of one stage or another are not sick and it is controversial how dangerous it is for a dog to have only one or two adult heartworms. These dogs are certainly infected but they do not have heartworm disease.

On the other hand, dogs with heartworm disease are sick. They not only have the infection but they have any of the problems because of it. Fortunately, heartworm disease is both treatable and preventable.

Heartworm disease in cats is quite a bit different from heartworm disease in dogs. Cats are so small that only one adult worm could be enough to cause heart failure, plus there is much more inflammation involved with immature worms in cats.

Prevention is recommended with year round administration of a monthly preventative.

If heartworm preventative is being given year round, it is recommended that a heartworm test be done every 2 years. We must look for some surety of compliance, either sufficient amount purchased here, or notes that a prescription was written along with receipts from another facility, to cover the period of compliance.

If heartworm is not given year round, a heartworm test is required yearly.

Benadryl Dosing

Benadryl which is also referred to as diphenhydramine is a medication which is readily available over the counter and is used to treat allergic reactions in both humans and animals especially dogs. This medication is FDA approved and is therefore quite safe for use. Many veterinarians highly recommend the use of this drug in dogs and they also safely administer Benadryl dosage for dogs.

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This drug is commonly used in dogs for the following reasons:

• Insect and flea bites
• Irritation of the skin
• Sleeplessness in dogs
• Effects of vaccinations
• Motion sickness
• Stings from bees, hornets as well as wasps
• Inhalant allergies
• Stuffy nose
• Tremors of the muscles
• Bodily knots

Benadryl is known to be a highly effective drug mostly due to the fact that it is easily absorbed and therefore acts very fast. In most cases, its effects are seen after about thirty minutes. However, in some cases it has been known to take about one week before any notable results can be seen.

Benadryl Dosage for Dogs:

The right dosage of this medication is usually determined in two different ways as indicated below:

It is administered by giving 1 milligram for every pound of a dog’s weight after every 8 hours or three times per day. A good example would be, a dog weighing  40lb should take 40mg of Benadryl three times within a single day.

Dogs are grouped according to three different weight classes with the dosage varying between these weight categories. What remains constant is the fact that the medication may be taken up to three times a day as needed. The following are the categories:

• - Dogs weighing 30 pounds and below – 10-30mg
• - Between 30 and 50 pounds – 25-50mg
• - 50 pounds and above – 50mg

As previously stated, it is clear to see that a dosage of Benadryl is highly dependent on a dog’s weight. As an individual who owns a dog for pet, it is highly advisable for you to first take your dog to a certified vet who has the right kind of knowledge and expertise when it comes to administering the right Benadryl dosage for dogs. Taking anything less of a full dose will not help in any way while taking an overdose is considered to be quite dangerous. A veterinarian will also be able to conclude on the right frequency when it comes to administering the drug. This can either be after every four, eight or even twelve hours. More importantly the vet will also ask various probing questions which will help him come to a conclusion as to whether or not your pet dog is suffering from an allergic reaction or something totally different.

Benadryl dosage for dogs and how to administer it:

Administering this medication to your pet dog can be done in different ways:

Position the table or capsule into small pieces of meat

Liquid gel capsules cab be dipped into a delicious treat

This drug can also be administered in the form of an injection although it is not so common. The importance of consulting with your vet before using this medication should never be overlooked.

Poisoning; First Aid

• Arum Lily
• Autumn Crocus
• Australian Flame Tree
• Avocado
• Azalea Baneberry
• Bird of Paradise
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• Black Laurel
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Seresto Collar Statement

There have been several calls and messages today with questions concerning the USA Today article on Seresto collars being connected to skin irritations, seizures and deaths in dogs, as well as reactions in people who have come into contact with the collars.

In our experience, this is very rare; we thankfully have no known Seresto-related deaths, or suspected Seresto-related neurological episodes. We do see skin reactions (hair loss around the neck, itchiness when first applied, or a rash around the neck) as the most common (but still not frequent) side effect in our patients using the collar.

There is definitely a concern on our end regarding counterfeit (and perhaps more dangerous) collars that are being sold as Seresto on numerous i>>nternet sites and this may be a bigger part of the story. We have seen counterfeit collars first-hand on our patients; they have not been purchased here, so we would like to advise caution in choosing your source should you continue to use the Seresto collar.

It is important to be comfortable and confident in what flea and tick control product you choose to protect your pet. We have had great success in helping to reduce tick disease occurrence with the products we have at our clinic, including Seresto. All of our recommendations are based on the benefit for your pet outweighing potential risks as well as what fits your needs. If your pet is currently using Seresto and you are concerned about continuing, feel free to call or message our office for alternative recommendations; please also be sure to bring up any concerns at your pet's next appointment with our veterinarians.

Thank you for your trust in us; we are truly grateful for the opportunity to care for your furry friends!

To Our Beloved Clients,

Effective immediately, to do our part to help keep our clients and staff healthy, we will be rescheduling non-essential visits.   You can assist us by rescheduling any wellness or other non-essential appointments you may have made, from now through April, to the period from May and beyond.   We are also going to add additional open time between necessary appointments to allow for more “social distancing”.

We understand that you may need regular medications, diets and other supplies for your pet.  Please call us to arrange for pickup of those medications.  We can take credit card payments over the phone and meet you in the parking lot with your pet’s medication.

We understand this puts a hardship on all of us.  In the case of a true emergency, please contact:

Cape Cod Veterinary Specialists at 508-759-5125.  They are located at 11 Bourne Bridge Approach, Buzzards Bay.

New England Animal Medical Center at 508-584-1600.  They are located in West Bridgewater on Rte 106 @ Rte 24

• Sincerely,
• Dr. Lappin & Staff at The Animal House
• 508-759-4522

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We do not collect or give out any information to any third party vendors or internet businesses.  No information will ever be disclosed to outside parties from us or our website hosting company at www.evetsites.com>>.  It's that simple, and we strictly adhere to this policy.  The Animal House recognizes the importance of protecting the personal privacy of its patients and those individuals who simply visit our site.  Your privacy is also protected in our hospital.  At no time is any information given out about the client or the pet without the consent of the owner.

CareCredit Information

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Like a credit card, but better

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With CareCredit, you can:

Get the treatment or procedure you want, when you want it

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General

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We are Here for You

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